waterproofing plywood... waterproofing plywood...
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    waterproofing plywood...
from Corey_H #11623  
1/18/2010 10:03:48 AM

Rated:

 I'm currently making a tackle storage compartment for my friend's jon boat. I'm using 3/4" plywood, but not the treated or marine plywood. I heard that treated plywood reacts with aluminum and marine plywood is both expensive and hard to find around my area. The plywood I bought is for use on both interior and exterior projects (exterior only if finished or sealed properly). Any suggestions about what I should use to seal and waterproof the whole thing? I don't want to simply use Thompsons water seal and then have to worry about re-doing it in a couple years. I plan on putting marine carpeting on the outside and really don't want to be tearing that off and reinstalling carpeting every couple years either. Thanks.


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   Epoxy or glass and epoxy from FreeOnBoard  1/18/2010 10:57:46 AM
 At the least, saturate all surfaces, especially the edges, with a slow setting, low viscosity epoxy. A layer of glass cloth on the outer surface would add strength and additional waterproofing but may not be needed if the compartment isn't too large. One thing that will help the epoxy penetrate the wood is to start with the wood warmed up, then remove the source of heat and apply the epoxy. The cooling air will suck the epoxy into the wood. As with all epoxy applications, sunlight (UV) will break it down if it is not protected with paint or a good varnish such as Pettit 1015. Good luck.


   plywood from Dwight #10907  1/18/2010 11:20:53 AM
 The plywood you bought will probably delaminate in two years because the carpet will hold water and any cracks or seams will allow water to enter the plywood. You won't know until it rots through from the inside. Why not spend a little more money and buy the treated plywood. If sealed or painted it won't affect the aluminum. If your not going to walk on the box you might try to find some used aluminum signs and use them.


   Storage Compartment from Ront53  1/18/2010 12:13:25 PM
  Why not consider using composite wood. It is a little more expensive, but will not rot or warp like plywood.


   question for FreeOnBoard... from Corey_H #11623  1/18/2010 12:15:41 PM
 Do you recommend any particular epoxy? Thanks for your input.


   West System Epoxy from Gene  1/18/2010 1:28:29 PM
 is a good company. My West Marine sells it ( no relation in the 2 companies, I don't think).


I agree with the above, the carpet may not be a good idea. Epoxy then paint would be my choice.


I made one years ago for an old boat, turned out pretty good. I made it to fit and store those plastic "Plano" type of boxes. I also put some hooks that would hold a pack of hooks/swivels/misc, just like at Walmart. You can make your own little tackle shack with just the stuff you use.


Have fun.


   Thanks Gene... from Corey_H #11623  1/18/2010 2:16:25 PM
 I appreciate the suggestion. An overabundance of 3600 & 3700 Plano boxes is precisely why I'm making this tackle storage unit. I bought some acrylic sheets that I've cut down to use as inserts on the bottom so that it will act quite a bit like a tackle storage system on a larger bass boat. Since it's my friend's boat, it will be his call on whether to use epoxy + paint or epoxy + carpet, but I'll be sure to pass your suggestion along.


   Some suggestions that you might consider: from humminbird #11206  1/18/2010 2:30:55 PM
 First is the the size you have chosen for the tackle storage. 3/4" thickness will be awfully heavy. 3/8" should work fine. Secondly, spending money to protect the wood may add cost greater than buying treated plywood. Epoxy treated wood would always leave ares where water will eventually penetrate causing wood separation. Thirdly, if you still want to make the plywood water-proofed, I recommend copper naphthalate which can be purchased at more hardware stores. It is a solvent based material. Use a paint brush to apply the copper naphthalate liberally....the more the better.
Still, it will cost you more to treat the wood than to start with treated wood. Good luck with your project. BTW, reducing the thickness of the wood could offset the chemical treatment of the wood.


Humminibrd


   Wood treatment from RichieC  1/18/2010 2:43:45 PM
 Check a website that I is called "The Rot Doctor". He is all about protecting wood. There is a section on wooden boats and another on the wood in fiberglass boats. They have a wood treatment product called CPES that penetrates the wood and as I understand it, bonds all of the wood particles together to prevent their rot. Then cover with a good coat or two or Resin.


   humminbird & RichieC from Corey_H #11623  1/18/2010 3:09:33 PM
 Thanks for the comments and suggestions. I initially was looking at 1/2" plywood but because of that fact that this storage compartment will almost be an extension of the deck and will be walked on, I thought I would go a little thicker in the hopes that it would hold up better over time. Good point about the costs of epoxy vs. getting treated plywood. I should have thought of that before I bought it. RichieC, I will check out that website and see what I can learn. Thanks!


   Several choices on the epoxy from FreeOnBoard  1/18/2010 4:32:48 PM
  I've gotten good results with Interlux,
Raka http://www.raka.com/index.html,
US Composites http://www.shopmaninc.com/index.html.ven't heard anything but good about West System epoxies, but for price I think US Composites or Raka will beat them, even with shipping added. Got the Interlux epoxy from Boater's World but don't know who carries it now. One advantage of the Raka epoxy, for me, is that both the slow and fast are 2:1 epoxy-hardener ratio, which allows you to mix hardeners and get an intermediate speed. US Composites epoxy comes in three speeds, slow 2:1, medium 3:1, and fast 4:1. That 4:1 is a little tricky to measure in small batches. The Raka slow epoxy is a little slower than the US Composites slow; even in fairly warm weather, both take a full day to get tack free. Nothing wrong with using pressure treated plywood except that it takes forever to dry out so that it will accept the epoxy. Anyway, if you coat that plywood properly, it will likely outlast the boat. Dwight makes a good point about the carpet, but if you have a good layer of epoxy under it, water intrusion won't be a problem. I epoxied the carpet to a couple of my trailer bunks three years ago and they're not showing any signs of deterioration. One thing that will help with the carpet is to apply a layer of thickened epoxy to the box and then bed the carpet base into that; the thickener keeps the epoxy from wicking up into the fibers. I aimed for a thickness about like mayonaise. For me, fumed silica (Cabosil, Aerosil, etc.) makes a more consistent and predictable thickener than sawdust or wood flour. Just be sure to use it in still air and avoid breathing the stuff. Good luck.


   I would not use wood from MikeF  1/19/2010 8:00:53 AM
  By the time you finish sealing and coating and waterproofing the plywood you could have bought Starboard which will outlast the boat and would be 1/4 the work for a few dollars more.


http://www.customcreativeplastics.com/spgm.cfm?dpt=H&srch=30&item=SB20&gclid=CIqErtTAsJ8CFQ1mswod4RzU1A

   I appreciate the help from Corey_H #11623  1/19/2010 9:53:48 AM
 Thanks to all who replied. I wish I would have posted this before going and purchasing the plywood and having it cut. Maybe I would have gone with Starboard or some other alternative to plywood. One way or another I'll get this done, although I might spend more money than I originally planned. Thanks again.


   do not assemble it from Gene  1/19/2010 10:55:24 AM
 until you seal it, with something.


   Take a look at Dry Ply from ukey28 #10297  1/20/2010 10:23:44 AM
 Its supposed to be pretty good. Home Depot carries it


   build it then take it out from minner  1/21/2010 4:41:14 PM
 and have it Line-X'ed.


   copper nap then oil based paint then carpet from smckelvy #12888  1/24/2010 1:52:19 PM
 I have had normal ac plywood last over 10 years like that and the boat was often stored outside.


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