Charging Issues Charging Issues
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    Charging Issues
from bobsbaits #15856 #15856  
6/23/2012 9:42:02 AM


 I have a 1989 Evinrude 70hp outboard and seem to be having trouble with the battery charging. Last time I was out the Tach quit working and then the battery went dead before I was done. I bought a new battery, but when I was out yesterday, but the fourth time I tried to start it the battery was dead.

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   When tach goes from 5keepers  6/23/2012 10:19:47 AM
 it is often alternator or possibly a power pack. Needs checking by someone that has good volt meter and knows how to check.
Good Luck!

   Had one like that from Les #11903 #11903  6/23/2012 4:21:05 PM
 Some years ago I had 1989 Evinrude 70hp with the same problem. After checking it out, as suggested above, it turned out to be the Regulator/Rectifier. They are cheaper at NAPA than they are at Marine supply place. They are like a light bulb, when they go bad, they are worthless, and the Tach also runs off the same rectifier. If ya can find another same motor swap um out, real easy with only a screw driver. If Tach works, you are in business and ready to go to NAPA. Used to be about $30 but probable a lot more now.

   Les is on the mark...I echo the same words from humminbird #11206 #11206  6/23/2012 9:40:44 PM
  Mercs have voltage regulators and Evinrudes use rectifiers. Not sure if 70 HP has one or two. Tach tells you that the rectifier is faulty. This is the engine's recharging the battery goes dead as the battery is not being recharged. Here's how to test and check. Need a voltmeter. Start engine on muffs and run engine at 2000-2200 rpm (no higher to protect engine). Measure voltage at the engine battery with voltmeter. A properly charging system will measure 14.4 volts (same as any vehicle). Over-charging will measure 16-17 volt and undercharging will be less than 14 volts. Now go to auto store (not marine dealer) and buy a rectifier(s). If two, replace both. Ask someome to point out rectifier(s) to you and DIY job. Take rectifier with you when buying a replacement to insure you get the right one.


Edited 6/23/2012 9:43:24 PM

   More info from Les #11903 #11903  6/24/2012 11:09:45 AM
  Most common on that motor is the rectifier. A small triangular part with a round raised area. It has two yellow wires and a red wire going to the terminal board.
You can test it with an OHM meter from the yellow to red wire. Continuity in one direction open in the other. Do this on both yellow wires.
Look at the stator, the series of coils under the flywheel. If it is "melting" or any dark brown spots it is overheating, and needs replacement. The rectifier is a 10 minute job. The stator takes special pullers to remove the flywheel. Disconnect your battery before preforming any work.

(found at

   Charging from bobsbaits #15856 #15856  6/24/2012 10:14:49 PM
 Thanks for the info, this is great!! Do I have to test with the motor running? I have a jet and was wondering how to run since the muffs wouldn't do much good.

   my thoughts again from Les #11903 #11903  6/25/2012 12:16:33 PM
 The engine doesn't need to be running to test for continuity between the two yellow wires and the red one. One should have continuity and the other shouldn't.

For the charging volts test the engine will have to be running. Maybe you can just sit a big empty trash can under jet drive, or back rig into water at a ramp somewhere, I really don't know, sorry.

   Thank you from bobsbaits #15856 #15856  6/25/2012 6:58:22 PM
 Thanks! I will try it this weekend.

   Checking stator from humminbird #11206 #11206  6/25/2012 7:11:25 PM
  If the yellow wires and the red wires are darken from over-heating, you may have a faulty stator and a $350-$400 setback. When checking voltage, you may see high voltage. However, based on the info you gave with battery going dead, I betting you are under-charging,


Edited 6/28/2012 9:19:16 PM



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