Crankbaits - When tight wobble,when wide wobble? Crankbaits - When tight wobble,when wide wobble?
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    Crankbaits - When tight wobble,when wide wobble?
from Ralph (  
6/9/1999 11:35:00 PM


 New too crankbait fishing with lots too learn. Can someone help me understand why and when you use a wide wobble and when a tight wobble. No fish caught on a crankbait yet but still trying. Thanks

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   what wobble and when from Mike (  6/10/1999 4:23:00 AM
 Tight when she is cold and wide when she is hot. that is what Hank Parker says I don't know if his wife agrees though lol! hope this helps.
   Wobble from Gary B. (  6/10/1999 9:58:00 AM

I fish crankbaits a lot and I must say that I don't place THAT much importance on whether it has a wide or tight wobble. The important thing to remember is 1) type of sound (i.e how many rattles are in it, material it's made of, etc.), 2) depth it'll run, and 3) color. The combination of wobble and rattles needs to produce a sound that at least roughly matches the sounds made by the dominant forage in your lake. Bream make a different sound than shad. Bream make a lower frequency sound and shad make a higher frequency sound. On lakes with lots of shad you can easily get by with rattle traps, etc. On smaller lakes where the bream is the meal of choice for bass I'd use something with only a few large rattles in it for that lower frequency sound.

Granted the wobble has something to do with the sound that it makes but not so much difference that I would choose a crankbait by wobble alone. More than anything I think that wobble determines how slow you can retrieve it, which is definitely important in the winter time. I hope this makes sense and I haven't confused you further. Maybe one of the other readers can better explain it. They may not even agree with me, but this is my opinion and I don't think I do too bad catching them with cranks. Good luck.



   Crankbait Wobble from Jeff Hahn (  6/10/1999 10:32:00 AM
 Ralph: I agree with Mike about the general principles - tight wiggle when the water's cold, wide wobble when the water warms. But, there are exceptions. The clearer the water, normally the tighter the wiggle I want in my bait. A wide wobble works well when the water if dingy - helps the bass find the bait better. Also, if the bass have been getting a lot of fishing pressure, I'll try the tight wobble bait first, since they see fewer of them. Finally, a tight wiggle usually suggests a more flat sided bait. There are few flat sided baits that get more than 5 feet deep, although a Lohr's Lure, Tennessee Tuffy, a Stanford Smokin' Shad, and the more commercially available large Shad Rap will get to 10' on a long cast. So, generally, a tight wiggling bait is usually fished when the fish are shallower. If they are deeper than 8'-10', you have to go with a wider wobbling bait. I find that a flat sided, tight wiggleing bait deflects off of shallow cover much more realistically than a rounder, wider wwobbling bait. And, no matter which type of wobbling bait you're throwing, if they stop biting it, tie on the other bait. This is what Clunn did when he won the 1994 Classic on the Arkansas River and set the all time Classic weight of 75 pounds. They stopped biting his 6A and 7a Bombers (wide wobble baits) on the last day, so he changed to a Shad Rap (tight wiggle bait) and proceeded to catch the largest limit of the tournament.

Jeff Hahn

   cranking from fongster (  6/10/1999 11:40:00 AM
 Hey Ralph...where are you fishing? Aside from that, I agree with above posts but I think depth, speed and color are most important factors. I try to fish dingier water or water with a wind ripple. Bumping off cover or structure is very important and can trigger strikes. I've had wide open bites (48 fish in 1 1/2 hrs.) where lure color didnt matter...this tells me action and speed were more critical. Additionally, my buddy pulled up and I invited him in on the fun...he only caught 1 for 3-4 of mine. The diff? I had on a Bomber 7A and he tossed a Rattling Fat Rap...hmmm? he duplicated speed and color. We figured they just wanted the 7A for some reason.
   Crankbaits from Tony (  6/10/1999 12:40:00 PM
 Here in Jersey the crankbaits that I've used have not failed me. Their colors even atrack me, but the thing I consentrate on with the crankbait is the unique motion a fisherman can give them. For example, here in N.J. the stop and go method works well, ah tug here ah tug there, stop and go, set the hook and.... Well anyway if anyone has any techniques that you would think would work in the Jersey area please share.
   My theory on tight versus wide wobble from Triton Mike (  6/10/1999 3:40:00 PM
 I have used this theory pretty regulary. I use a wide wobble in off colored water (Murky to muddy) and a tight wobble in clear water. Reasoning?? Well in muddy water you want to have a big crank that displaces alot of water hence creating alot of vibration. The tight wobble for clearer situations when you need a nautral presentation and not alot of vibration due to the fish being able to see the bait better. I also agree with the above the depth the bait dives, presentation, and shades of colors are more important than the wobble. I very seldom use a wide wobble crank. If I have to fish muddy water I very seldom throw a crank I would resort to a big spinnerbait, or jig (ie slower presentation). Hence I can write a book on this topic but just gave you some highlites on my experience. If you have any crankin questions shoot me an email.;-)

Triton Mike

   Read above your level of skill. from Sir Reality (  6/11/1999 1:15:00 AM
  Nudge Nudge on the title of this post. I encourage everyone to read this Field & Stream article, beginner to pro.

If you read it one way you will laugh your a$$ off, if you read it another way you will think you have learned something. It must be noted that many BFHP members do not approve of frenzy crankbaits because they tend to fall apart. Hopefully Berkely has corrected the problem.

Anyway, this page is a great read, for any skill level. Check it out:



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