Knots for P-Line Knots for P-Line
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    Knots for P-Line
from Bobby (  
10/21/1999 1:54:00 PM


 I have recently begun using CXX P-Line, both 8 and 12 lb. test. I use 8 lb for texas rig worm and 12 lb for carolina leader. This past weekend both broke during the hookset after I had just retied them. They actually broke with very little pressure because I have the drag set fairly loose so that the drag slips and let the hook penetrate instead of tearing (This has also reduced the number of broken rods greatly). They both broke about in the middle of the palomar knot. I always wet my line while tightening up the knot so to reduce friction. I never had a knot break in the original stren I've previously used for the past 5 years. What knots do you use and what success rate do you have. Thanks

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   Test your knots from Marlin Frederick (  10/21/1999 2:12:00 PM
  The palomar knot is the knot I use with P-line. Remember that the Polar knot has a very low break strength if it gets a twist in the line in the right spot. It is fairly easy to get this line twist, so I always test my knots before actually fishing with them. Since I've started doing this I don't think my line has ever failed at the knot.

The thing that fustrates my is about 30% of my knots break too easy when I test them. My brother on the other hand only has about 5% of his break. We can't see where I'm doing anything different, but I must be.

   P-line has no knot strength from bassless (  10/21/1999 2:38:00 PM
 My buddy Cosmic showed me this.

try pulling a length of P-line, or any braid for that matter, between your fists... strong stuff, right?

o.k. tie a knot in the middle of the line and do the pull test again...

SNAP! surprised? I was.

Let me know how strong the line was with the knot.

tight (mono) lines.


   P-Line, Knots etc from Pat Dilling  10/21/1999 3:02:00 PM
 I have had trouble with a palomar knot to the point that the only thing I now use it with is braid like Power-Pro or Fire line. I know it can be a very strong knot, but I too have had failures like Bobby and Marlin are experiencing. I am sure it has to do with a twist or some other line cross that I am causing. For my Mono or Copolymer lines I went back to the Trilene knot and it works great for me. I use 12# CXX P-line quite a bit and have experienced very few failures with the Trilene knot.

Bassles, FYI P-Line is not a braid, but a co-polymer line.


   knots from fishing (  10/21/1999 4:44:00 PM
 I use a palonar or trilene knot most of the time. I like the trilene knot when tying directly to a hook for Texas or C-rigs. However, when money is on the line, I use a double line uni. After reading and reviewing many articles regarding knot strength, all double line knots are stronger than single line knots. The double line uni is the strongest knot that I have seen data on. I have not seen data on the double line Trilene, but I bet it is up among the strongest too. I use to use the double line Trilene on braided lines. These knots are hard and time consuming to tie correctly, but thay are among the strongest. Just test them for yourself using a strip of line and a couple of swivels. Tie the swivels on each end of the line with different knots and pull them apart until something brakes.
   P-Line Knot from Ralph Manns  10/22/1999 12:24:00 AM
 I have experimented with P-line. It is very stout line but has grossly under-rated linetest values. My 8-poundspool was the diameter of 12 pound Magnathin and tested over twelve pound when new and dry. I found it as strong, but not particularly stronger than Stren Magnathin of the same diameter.

I find my Magnathin has slightly less memory and continue to use it although the P-line performed well on my crank-bait rods in tests of 8 through 20# lines. It's very strong, but some of the appearance of strength is due to the under-rated line test designations.

What do you want from a line in the 8-12 pound category? If you find line abrassion is a major problem in your typical fishing (I don't, even at Fork), you may be happier with P-line. But compare it with Berkley Big Game or similar diameter heavy lines to make a valid comparison. If I'm in heavy cover and worried about abrasion I use 20 pound or heavier line, often super line. I save the light line for fairly open water and grass.

Forget about the line test on packages, the only valid comparisons are made by comparing lines of the same diameter.

This background info out of the way-- I started using the double-line clinch knot (DLCK) for lines of 12 pound test and under years ago. I still use Palomars for 20# lines or higher, as the DLCK becomes too bulky. I used these knots when test fishing with P-line and they worked fine.

For small lines, particularly those tied to small terminal gear like snaps or small split rings, the DLCK tested as a 100% knot ( the line breaks somewhere other than the knot in strain tests) and weakens slowly. My comparison tests showed the palomar often cut itself with small diameter lines, and the Berkley knot, which tested 100% when fresh, tended to weaken more rapidly in use as the single wrap flexed. All other knots, the standard clinch and several single-wrap knots, that I tested failed sooner in use and had to be retied more often than the DLCK.

The DLCK is also good for tieing no-slip knots with braids and super-lines.

   How do you to tie the DLCK from Pete (  10/22/1999 9:47:00 AM
 I am a Stren Magnathin fan, it not as abrasion resistent as some lines, but when it comes to cranking it get more depth than most, so I keep a close watch on the area just above the plug for wear. I have been using the palomar knot and it seems ok, but I would like to learn the DLCK. I also use Magnathin as leaders for spiderwire braid, and as long as you use this with a rod that has some give it works just fine. I test lines of different type of the same breaking strain by tying a double surgeon loop in each line, link them together and then pulling them until one fails, you will be surprised which one wins... I tried fluorocarbon as a leader and broke of on the hook set, I am not ready for that level of reliability, they will have to improve it!!!!
   Couple possible hints on Palomar.... from LedHed (  10/22/1999 11:02:00 AM
 I've used the Palomar for several years pretty much exclusively. If it's a preferred knot for you, there's two things I'd strongly recommend about it: after bringing the loop over the lure or hook, be sure the base of the loop is rotated all the way over, and that there's no twist at the base of the loop. A quick spread of the loop with thumb and finger, after bringing it over, will rotate the lure/hook and remove twists... it quickly becomes automatic. Leave a long tag end to grab, because it's also very important to tighten the knot using the tag end ONLY - especially with non braids. Tightening with the main line will burn the line almost every time, wet or not, and weaken it (that crinkling effect in the line near the knot). Had that pointed out to me by someone here a long time ago, and they were right.

I use the Palomar because it's fast and easy. The double line (same as double loop?) clinch knot no doubt rates better in knot strength, but I just never could tie it as fast. Just plain impatience, and clumsy fingers :) I agree with Mr. Manns about that line strength - what exactly are you expecting using 8# test for T-rigging? I've found the P-line to be exceptionally strong and tough, and it's the only mono I use now (I don't count flourocarbon). IMHO, it's about as good as mono gets right now...

   Knots from Toad (  10/22/1999 4:31:00 PM
 I believe that it is much more important to tie a knot correctly, than which knot you tie.
   Palomar Knot from Joe (  10/22/1999 11:57:00 PM
 I've used it for Many many years...I have found that when it breaks like the above mentioned, it was because I had slack in my line....Although sometimes it was only ever so much, It was because of slack...Two inches of slack can pop any line like a twig...We must feel that pressure before we swing successfully...Just from experience...To me its the fastest tying knot around...
   To tie the DLCK from Ralph Manns  10/23/1999 1:29:00 PM
 Simple double the line back on itself. Then tie a clinch knot, just as it is pictured in most books and knot manuals. Make 4.5 twists and go through the loop adjacent to the hook or lure-tie. Hold the loop open during tying with a finger tip. This takes some finger agility.

Like all knots, it's necessary to avoid twisting the line . Make sure the wraps are even and untwisted. Pull up slowly, preferably moisten, using both the main line and tag-end and the extended loop end. Cut the loop-end no less than 1/16th inch from the knot.

Always test knot strength before using (with this ar any other knot). A poorly tied knot willhave low strength.

The lighter the line test, the better this knot performs compared to all others I've tested. It's a must for ultra-light applications.



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