Bass Fishing Home PageTM



Boating Equip.
Tackle Shops
Fishing Acc.
Fishing Reports
BFHP Articles
Fishing News
Fishing Tactics
Places to Fish
Boat Ramp Stories
Other Topics
Other Fishing Topics
Swap/Sell (no boats)
Props 4 Sale

Boats 4 Sale
Saltwater Fishing
Striped Bass
Lure Making
OBX Wildlife Photos
More Politics

SUBJECT: # 11390: Ranger Cool Hub Repair

Submitted by BobR93 ( from GEORGIA on 8/24/05 7:41:00 PM

I'm new to this topic so please forgive me, this has probably been asked many times.

I have a 2001 Ranger tandem trailer and a non-brake hub is milky. I know it is milky due to water getting inside either rear seal or front cap.

I would like to replace both front and rear seals. Would someone be so kind and email me directions (as specific as possible) to do this repair. Also what items do I need to get(part#'s if possible)to do this repair right. Can I get these items outside of Ranger or do I have to order direct?

I appreciate your time and effort with your assistance!!!


  1. 8/24/05 8:39:00 PM Submitted by Jeff Hahn from OHIO says Bob
    Bob: I have posted on this page several times about how to maintain your COOL Hubs. They are not any harder to do than greased hubs, just different. I don't know if you can buy the seals (both front and rear) from an auto parts store or whether you have to buy them from Ranger. I have a faint recollection that someone asked this before and found out that the parts had to be purchased directly from Ranger, as they are not common to other types of hubs and trailers.

    Call the Ranger Parts Department and give them the serial number of your boat. They will punch that into their computer and know exactly the parts you need to do the repairs.

    Two things you will need are some 50 weight motor oil. Ranger uses 50 weight Vavoline Racing oil, which you can get at Wal-Mart. You will also need a "nipple" shaped cap for the quart bottle of oil. I use a nipple shaped cap that came with some rear end fluid. In addition, you will need a tube of High Temp Red silicone. You can get this at any auto parts store.

    However, before you start tearing things apart, you should know that it is NOT a problem if the oil in the hub is milky looking. However, if the oil turns "chunky" then it does need to be replaced. Remember, two drops of water will turn the oil milky and you can get that much just from condensation. If the only thing wrong is the milky oil, there is NO NEED to replace the seals. Seals only need to be replaced when you see oil leaking out of them.

    If you only want to replace the oil, that's simple. Jack-up the trailer, remove the wheel, and take out the allen screw in the hub. Turn the hub upside down and let the old oil drain out. When it's done draining, turn the hub right side up and add new oil from the quart. Put the nipple end of the cap in the hole and squeeze the oil bottle. remove the bottle every now and then to allow the air to equalize. Continue filling the ub until the oil completely covers the outer window in the end of the hub. Then, using your thumb, push in on the clear window on the end of the hub to burp any air out of the hub. Refill with oil, burp again, etc. until you can't get any more oil inside the hub. One thing, though, if you don't take off the clear window, some milky oil will stick to it and although the oil in the hub is new, it will appear milky in the window. Again, that's not a problem, but you should be aware of it. If you do take the outer window off, you will need to replace the front seal, which is simply a large "O" ring. make sure to put a dap of high temp red silicone on the top edge of the allen scre wewhen you reinstall it. Once the clear wondow is reseated, I also put a little red silicone around the edge, where it meets the hub.

    Do a search on this page using "COOL Hubs" as your key words and look for my posts. All the detailed instructions you need will be there. If you have any questions, call Ranger at (870) 453-2222 and ask for Charile Smith or Curtis Rory in the Trailer Department. They can answer all of your questions.

    Jeff Hahn

  2. 8/25/05 11:17:00 PM Submitted by Jim ( from TENNESSEE says Seal numbers
    BOB, I've taken the inner seal and the Cap O ring part numbers from the manual of my '99 book. I suggest you verify these numbers with Ranger because they may have been updated: Inner seal (double lip) - - - - 9624105

    O ring seal for cap - - - - - - 9606089

    Good luck with your project. JIM

  3. 8/26/05 3:08:00 PM Submitted by George ( from COLORADO says Hey Jeff.........
    Just got a new Ranger boat with the new style trailer with the new style cool hubs. These hubs have low/high oil level marks and are not filled completly with oil; there is some air in the hubs. In the past I have wondered why we had to get all the air out; wouldn't it be ok to run the old style hubs "almost" filled? The only possible problem might be overheating if there was not enough oil in the hub. What do you think?

  4. 8/27/05 12:55:00 AM Submitted by Jeff Hahn from OHIO says George
    George: I don't have an experience with the new COOL Hub design. You are correct in that they are not full of oil and therefore have air inside...about 1/3 of the chamber appears to be air.

    As far as I know, you can run the old COOL Hubs without the hubs being completely full of oil. I don't think that Ranger recommends this practice, but I think you might get by with it. However, since the old design is supposed to be full of oil, I am going to run mine completely full.

    I know that many aspects of the new COOL Hubs were changed from the old design. There may be something in the design of the old style that requires the hubs being full. Perhaps this may help prevent condensation or it may be it helps you tell when the oil is beginning to leak by a line appearing on the window. I don't know for sure, so these are just guesses. But, I know that Ranger recommends that they be fulled to the brim.

    Jeff Hahn

  5. 8/27/05 11:32:00 PM Submitted by Dennis ( from TENNESSEE says Cool Hubs
    If your COOL Hubs are made by UFP, they should be kept full. Not only does this allieviate condensation buildup, but you will notice that the "window" on the protector is actually a piston. The purpose of having it full is that oil and air expand at different ratios when hot. The piston moves out to allow for expansion. When you submerge it in the cold water, the piston continues to apply pressure to the seal, prohibiting water entry from the back of the hub. When cold the piston will be flush again with the edge of the protector. If it is not retracted flush when cold, remove the allen plug and wick a little oil out with a paper towel. The oil should be to the bottom of the plug, and not lower.

  6. 8/29/05 8:29:00 PM Submitted by Chuck ( from VERMONT says Cool Hubs SUX
    The worst designed product for such an important piece of equipment Ive seen in awhile. Mine have been changed 3 times by the dealer. The design itself has been "upgraded" 3 times since 2000, obviously there are problems with the designs. The last time I had all 4 replaced with the "newest triple seal design", next day I noticed an oil slick down the side of the wheel & tire onto the driveway. I have realy had it with the CoolHub BS. Each time I have the dealer do the work on it, and its 2 plus hours away.

  7. 8/30/05 8:48:00 AM Submitted by Jeff Hahn from OHIO says Chuck
    Chuck: Given the good experience most of us have had with COOL Hubs, it sounds to me like the problem is the dealer that you are having work on them. There is no way that they should fail if properly maintained and serviced. If I were you I would either do the work myself, find another Ranger dealer to work on them, or take them to a local, reliable brake shop to have the work done.

    Jeff Hahn

  8. 8/30/05 8:50:00 AM Submitted by Jeff Hahn from OHIO says One more thing...
    You did not explain exactly what the problems are that you are having that cause the seals to fail. You should call Ranger (870-453-2222) and talk to Charlie Smith or Curtis Rory in the Trailer Department. Explain the problems that you have had and see what answers they have for you. Both Charlie and Curtis are extremely knowledgeable and will take the time to help you.

    Jeff Hahn

  9. 8/31/05 10:30:00 PM Submitted by Dennis ( from TENNESSEE says Cool hubs
    Jeff is correct. Often the dealer unknowingly thinks they have repaired a problem without fully investigating and this is often corrected through experience. Your dealer probably did everything correct and your true problem could have been the L-ring (sometimes called the speedy sleeve) that the seal actually rides on. Simply replacing the L-ring with a little aviation sealant under it is probably all you needed. The dealer most likely felt it was a seal problem when the water was actually creeping in under the L-ring. Remember, 1-2 drops of water is all it takes to make the oil turn milky. Using Royal Purple will also help keep folks from panicing, as it eats any condensation. Replace the 50W motor oil with Royal Purple 50W. They have a dealer locator online at Most often you can find it through NAPA or O'Reily auto parts stores too.

Go to next message
Go to previous message

Notify board monitor that this message contains inappropriate content

Great Deals on Fishing Equipment!
Shimano Reels St. Croix Rods Spinner Baits Daiwa Reels


To post a followup to this subject use the following form:

(Sponsors/Supporters only)

Email Address (mandatory for non-subscribers and non-registered users!):




Advertising/Sponsor Information

Register to post messages and reports


Subscribers don't receive these ads

Fishing Reports
BFHP Articles
Fishing News
Upcoming Events
Rally Page
BFHP Surveys
Fishing Tactics
Places to Fish
Other Topics
Product Evaluations

Boat Ramp Stories
Trailers & Towing
Boats For Sale
Tournament Tactics
Striped Bass

Fly Fishing
Saltwater Fishing
Non-Fishing 2
Political Hook
Tall Tales, Fiction & Legend
Complete Listing of Boards
Copyright © WMI, Inc. 1995-2017. All rights reserved.
This message board created and maintained by: WebMasters International, Inc. (WMI) address mail to

WMI disclaimer
Privacy Statement