depth finder cable repair depth finder cable repair
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Electronics

    depth finder cable repair
from rb (192.223.186.85)  
5/3/2000 2:16:00 PM

Rated:

 The coaxial cable for the tranducer on my 6 year old hummingbird is split/frayed. Is it possible to strip the cable back and repair (with connectors)the bad spot? Will I get inacurate readings after I did the repair?

Or should I just chunk the whole set-up and buy a new depthfinder.


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   Yes, you can splice it! from Clayton (209.34.33.156)  5/3/2000 10:22:00 PM
 But, I have never used connectors! I have spliced several ducer cables, and never had any trouble, w/any of them! Aslong as the splice is not going to get wet, it is very possible, and will work fine! Just make sure that the shielding wire, doesn't touch the inner wire! I always splice both of the wires, don't ask me why, I just do!
   Cable splicing. from Donn (209.86.77.90)  5/4/2000 9:12:00 AM
 The people that sell depth finders; manufactuers thru the retail, don't want you to know that splicing will work. But most of the time it does. They play with your mind and say it may not be accurate. But Clayton is right, make sure your coax doesn't does your wire. Donn
   Splicing from Jim Miller (208.44.101.69)  5/4/2000 8:44:00 PM
 I have done this a few times with no problems. I also have taken cables from an Eagle unit I replaced and rather than remount a new shoot thru from the new Lowrance, I spliced the connector from the Lowrance to the old cable from the Eagle shoot thru and it is the same wiring. So if you buy new units and need a emergency cable or whatever...you can even cross brands. The only differences are the connectors to the units...
   Depth Finder Cable Repair from Greg Walters  5/5/2000 10:59:00 AM
 rb from Texas. Most of what has been posted is correct. Here are some pointers (some of these have been mentioned). 1. First a word about safety, not only to the person performing the job but also to the depth sounder. Before starting work, turn off all power in the boat and unplug the transducer from the depth sounder. You may also want to discharge the transducer's element by shorting the wires together that are on the transducer side of the break in the cable. A transducer's element can act like a battery (capacitor) and build up a charge. Not enough to really hurt you but with a hot soldering iron, knife, of other sharp object in hand, nobody needs a little jolt. 2. Splicing would be better than cutting the transducer wire and adding a couple of connectors. You are going to have to cut both 'wires' anyway. If you add the connectors, you have to make twice as many connections - twice as many connections will double your chances of making a mistake. 3. Don't just cut, strip, twist and tape. Solder all of your connections. Twisting wires together, butt end connectors, wire nuts and all are fine and may give you good service for awhile. But to make a better quality connection, one that will last and that may save you the same headache later, solder all wire to wire connections. This will help keep moisture out and at the same time make a better electrical connection. 4. Connect the wires back to the proper wire. Also be sure and keep any shielding, whether it be a wire or foil type, intact. Shielded cable is used for a reason, if you eliminate the shielding, you may experience problems later. 5. Insulate any internal wires from each other. Use electrical tape or heat shrink tubing to keep any wires from contacting each other. Also, on some transducer cables there may be shielding between internal wires. Keep this intact as well. 6. When all is soldered, internally insulated, and shielded, seal your connection with a flexible covering. You may want to use large diameter heat shrink tubing for a real professional look but I have used silicone and flexible hot-melt type glue before and not had any reoccurring problems.

Techsonic Industries (Humminbird) has looked into repairing the damaged cables of transducers that have been sent in to us. With all of the labor involved and the possibility of making a mistake (especially on transducers with multiple internal wires and shielding), we have concluded that it would be a far better service to the customer to simply replace the damaged transducer with a new transducer. I believe that our current charge to 'fix' a damaged standard transducer that is returned to our factory is $29.50. Most people do not have the skills or want to take the time to properly splice a transducer cable. Some Humminbird transducers are not just coaxial cable. Depending on the transducer, the cable may have up to seven wires that all have individual foil shields with an additional outer foil shield. That's a lot of tedious, exacting work that needs to be done when you can have another transducer for $29.50! As far as using one brand of transducer on another, I wouldn't recommend it unless you know all of the details of the old transducer and the depth sounder you want to use it with. Many manufactures, and individual models from the same manufacturer, design their depth sounders to operate at different frequencies. They may also be designed to operate with different cone angles. With different manufactures measuring the cone angle of their transducers at different points and in different ways, you cannot always directly compare the cone angle of two different manufacture's transducers. Using an existing transducer from the same manufacturer is usually the safer way to go but always try and get additional information if at all possible. If you are going to use a piece of transducer cable to splice into another, remember to match the cable type (wire gauge, number of wires, and any shielding). One concern about a Customer splicing a transducer wire or using a different transducer than the one provided, is that the Customer may get less than satisfactory results and blame it on the depth sounder manufacturer. I am sure that anyone who has dealt with John Q. Public will attest to the fact that a large majority of consumers will blame the manufacturer or product, when it is really the installation of the product that is at fault or the Customers usage of a product that may be the real issue.

Greg Walters QA Technician Techsonic Industries (Humminbird)


   Great post Greg! from Clayton (209.34.34.230)  5/5/2000 11:33:00 PM
 You have changed some of my views, toward Humminbird! I didn't think that they had anyone, w/any competence, there! And then you show up! Very, very good advice! I am not poking fun @ you, I have just had a bad taste in my mouth, from H-bird, since they burnt me on 2 Platinum I.D.s! You know, kinda like people who have gotten bit by one, of the big 3 auto manufacturers! I am just scared to try them again. I almost went back to H-bird, and bought the NS-25, but then I got a great deal on the GlobalMap 2000 w/mapping package(New in the Box for $535!)so I still only can brag on the H-bird flashers, as I have never had a minutes trouble out of any of them! And, they are 1/3 the price of a Lowrance! Just wanted to let you know, that I think that it was very nice of you to tell someone, that they could splice their ducer cable, when you could have very easily told him, that it would not work, or that it may damage his unit, or some of the other BS we all here! Thanks for being a good sport!!

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