NEW LOWRANCE:: GPS Module Not Responding NEW LOWRANCE:: GPS Module Not Responding
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    NEW LOWRANCE:: GPS Module Not Responding
from Tony C (  
5/28/2007 4:16:00 PM


 I have two New Lowrance GPS units. LMS-332C and LMS-480M. I've had the boat for a few weeks and the GPS has worked from both units just a few times at short intervals.

They are connected to each other via NMEA2000 buss. Then connected to the LGC-2000 GPS Antenna/Receiver.

Today I disconnected them from each other, and connected each of the units separately to the LGC-2000 to see if the the GPS Module would respond, but No Luck. Both Units work well for Depth and Temperature, but keep giving me the "GPS Module Not Responding".

I'm assuming the LGC-2000 needs to be replaced.

Any Advise?

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   This is a common problem from MikeF. (  5/28/2007 7:01:00 PM
 and can usually be solved by checking the power to the LGC2000. The GPS module needs it's own power source; it sounds like yours was intermittent and finally went out completely. I would look for a loose splice on the wire providing power to the module or a broken wire (doubtfull if the system is fairly new). If that doesn't work I'd guess your module went bad.

   : GPS Module Not Responding from Tony C (  5/29/2007 12:54:00 PM
 Hello. If there is power in both of the Lowrance Depth finders independently (all functionality except GPS works wonderfully) and I take the LGC2000 unit and connect it directly to each of the two units independently of one-another, would you assume the LGC2000 is bad?

   Power to the network? from Allan Tarvid (  5/29/2007 8:12:00 PM
 You obviously have the power cables for your two units hooked up but do you have the network powered as well? Many (maybe all) Lowrance network compatible units have two sets of power leads on the unit's main power cable, one set powers the unit and the other powers the network. If both of your units have this extra set of power leads for the network, only one set can be hooked up to power. Hooking up both of them could overpower the network and damage it.

An alternative method of powering the network is to leave the extra power leads in the units' power cables disconnected and use a separate designated power connection - it's a tee with a set of power leads on it that plugs into the network.

No matter which power wires are used, they are sometimes routed through a switch so you can turn network power on and off. The network only draws a tiny amount of juice but it adds up over time. If you have an onboard charger and keep it plugged in you won't ever have to worry about leaving the network powered. Anyway, if there is a switch for network power and it's off, that could be why you are getting that message.

Once you find where the network power is coming from, check the fuse holder. If it's sloppy or corroded, or the positive or negative power leads have some other kind of bad connection, it could be your problem.

   Is your network terminated properly? from John (  5/29/2007 11:35:00 PM
 Take a step back and draw out your network design. I bet you are not terminated properly with the 120 ohm terminators.

   No, just connecting them to the displays is not enough. from MikeF. (  5/31/2007 11:48:00 PM
 The network needs it's own power. In short, both the displays will need power along with the network - three connections to power. It's possible that one of the termination resistors is missing, fell off or is not on properly. I always suspect my connections first before I turn to a bad component.



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