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SUBJECT: # 6807: Looking for a good clear coat& a book recomendation
Submitted by Rick7 (209.191.27.220) from NEW JERSEY on 1/10/2000 5:10:00 PM
I hit the Library,today to catch up on some reading(If the fish ever stop bitting :).I found a book,The Complete Book Of Tackle Making, by C. Boyd Pfeffer,man is this ever a thruogh guide to making lots of lures.It gives details of many types of lure making& is a good inspiration for the tinkerer.I plan on making some lures this winter,and I have yet to find a good clear coat.Anyone out there have some recomendations?Everything I have tried either is too soft yellows,or scratches off too easy.Thanks in advance
- 1/10/2000 9:51:00 PM
Submitted by
Horacio Ramírez (207.16.136.3) from TEXAS says Recomended Book
I do not know about the coat, but if you like good fishing reading, try Plugger (Wading the Gulf Coast). I think it is a very good book. I will try "When the fish stop...."
Regards
- 1/10/2000 10:51:00 PM
Submitted by
Don (207.26.192.86) from HAWAII says Clear Coat
Quite some time ago folks used a product called Deco Pour (I'm unsure as to the spelling) to coat their guide wraps. It is/was more scratch resistant than the current epoxies. The intended use by crafters was to provide a thick, clear finish on table tops and placques. The last time I was in a craft shop I couldn't find any similiar products. Maybe your area has bigger, better craft shops. Don
- 1/11/2000 8:47:00 AM
Submitted by
TomD (208.227.66.2) from NEW YORK says Clear Coat
Although somewhat expensive for your purpose, you could try Flex Coat which is used for rod guide wraps. I have played around with excess material while building a rod or coating my bucktail wraps and it does coat wood and I suspect most anything else very well. It also is non yellowing unlike 5 minute epoxy for example and creates a waterproof coating. It does take some time to set up (it is a 2 part epoxy) so be prepared to hang the item and drip it or you would have to rotate the plug slowly like a rod.
- 1/11/2000 4:51:00 PM
Submitted by
AndyG (128.135.60.14) from MAINE says West System
West System epoxies seem to be all the rave these days for wooden boats. They use a version of the stuff in the Paleontology lab that I work in to put fossil fragments back together. The stuff I've seen is two part epoxy and grey in color. Does anybody know if they make a clear one?Andy
- 1/11/2000 10:53:00 PM
Submitted by
Patrick (152.163.204.24) from Australia says Must Concur about West systems.
I use westsystem products when making boats, chine and round bottom. With the west system products, you have your base epoxy and you can add different things to it.I use 3 types of the epoxy. Straight West System for wetting parts out (The other mixtures bond better when you put straight epoxy on it) We also put at least 3 coats on to water proof things.
406- This is basically shredded fiberglass. You add this to the straight epoxy AFTER you mix the the straight epoxy. This is good for bonding stuff. We run "fillets" with this stuff. That you have two boards intersecting and you put 406 in the crack and spread it out nice and smooth. This stuff is nice and thick so make sure you don't have any airbubbles. Oh and use it SPARINGLY! The stuff is an SOB to sand. The only two sanders that work well are the belt sanders and the orbital sander. This stuff is sharp too!
410- This is a microlight filler. Put this in AFTER you mix the straight epoxy. Then add just a touch of 406 to stiffen it up a bit. This is for "fairing". Basically, if you get a gouge in your wood, spread this stuff out, sand off the excess and it looks great! The thing is, most boats use High Gloss paint. So if you have any dimples or gouges, they show up really well. 410 sands off really easily. It can be sanded by hand. West System epoxy is great stuff.
There are a few tips I can give you since I've been using the stuff for 2 years. If you mix it wrong, it will heat up and will actually began to smolder. Plus it won't cure right. If you get it on your skin, wash it off immediately. Wear old clothes or Coveralls because once it gets on clothing, you cannot get it out. This stuff is 10 times worse then Flexcoat when it comes to destroying things. Don't throw the stuff out in the garbage can. It will melt through the bag. We put excess in a 5 gallon bucket. Be careful. Too much and you have a lot of work sanding.
You may not believe me when it comes to fishing, but the one thing I do know is boat building. Patrick
- 1/12/2000 12:23:00 AM
Submitted by
Gowge (38.30.155.31) from FLORIDA says The Problems With West System Products
The ones I'm familiar with are very thin and you have to measure oh so carefully - something like 20:1 ratios,etc. But - they do work on wood. Rick, why not try some colored gel coat first, and then just paint over it the color you want the lure to be? You could use white gel coat and it would be very hard and almost puncture proof. This stuff can be tinted to make all kinds of colors, too. I've been thinking about making up a bottle of it that I can just dip my old wood plugs in before repainting them. It's probably heavy, though as any hard finish would be...
- 1/12/2000 7:44:00 AM
Submitted by
Rob (38.231.88.2) from VIRGINIA says Clear Coats
I'm going on the assumpton that you want to paint lures, say wooden ones. As a kid, one of my friends father's used to own a body shop and we would pour a bunch of shad darts (I grew up near the Delaware River in NJ) and we would hang them on a wire rack and gun them with auto body paint. After 2 or 3 coats of paint, we'd hit them with 2 coats of this clear coat called Emeron (sp.)and it's like iron. Pretty bullet proof stuff - wouldn't chip at all. I'd suggest you talk to a paint rep because your base color paint will have to be compatable with wood and the clear coat compatable with the base paint. Just my $0.02.rob
- 1/12/2000 8:55:00 AM
Submitted by
Plug (205.188.198.174) from DELAWARE says Imron
I think thats Imron. Its a Dupont product. I beleive you can get Imron in all colors as well as a clear coat.
- 1/12/2000 7:36:00 PM
Submitted by
Rick7 (209.191.25.3) from NEW JERSEY says Thanks guys
Now comes the hard part,but with some trial and error I expect to be using some home made plugs next spring.I came across a box of cedar ballisters that are just dying to be turned :) into lures.