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SUBJECT: # 19667: mounting a windlass need help
Submitted by dave (64.12.101.151) from NEW YORK on 4/4/2001 9:57:00 PM
i have 24' robalo with a pulpit and anchor line box. i would like to mount a windlass winch on my boat but i'm stuck on where to put it.
i went to a few marina's and a few supply stores and got a diffrent answer from each place and they all sound cheesy.they all agreed i have too bolt the down the anchor bin door and put the winch on top of it.but to me that puts to much strain on a locker door. i just dont know what to do.
does anyone have pics or ideas what i can do to mount this.
thanks
- 4/4/2001 10:49:00 PM
Submitted by
Leprechaun (12.88.106.126) from NEW YORK says Windlasses - one of my Fav Subjects
So its tough to make recommendations without knowing which model windlass you favor. But plan on reinforcing the deck from above and below inorder to properly spread the load the windlass will pass to the deck. Your suspicions are correct. Simply bolting down the door and mounting her on there will not give satisfactory results in the long run. Now this fordeck - can it be accessed from the cockpit side via a second door? In other words, from the forward part of the cockpit (In front of the console) is there a means to get to the underside of the foredeck/anchor locker area? If so I recommend reinforcing the underside of the deck with a 3/4" piece of marine ply soaked with at least one good coat of epoxy resin. Cut it to fit as wide a portion of the foredeck underside as possible. Above the deck I recommend a 3/4" piece of Starboard HDPE material, again cut to completely cover the foredeck, including the anchor locker door.Bolt this all together with flat-head flush mounted bolts, countersunk into the Starboard. A sealing bead of Boatlife around the edge of the Starboard and in the bolt holes will discourage water intrusion and thus deck delamination.
The windlass can then be mounted to this reinforced deck with reasonable expection of long life. Again, not knowing which windlass you will select, this is the strongest setup I believe a boatowner can reasonably do himself and is very similar to what I use on my rig.
Now if you can't get to the underside of the foredeck, your problem is much more complicated. I'm not a marine architect but I HAVE seen the damage an inproperly mounted windlass can inflict, and it ain't pretty. I would probably still go with the Starboard, but pick it up to 1" thickness and work strictly from above.
Keep in mind a few factors when choosing your windlass. You need to determine how much windlass you will need for you application/intended use and whether a free-drop option will best suit your needs. Frankly, having owned several power-down models as well as my current free-drop, I really don't see the point of power-down. I find in my fishing that when I need the anchor deployed, It has to go NOW, without me having to hold position uptide/wind of my piece for a few minutes while the anchor liesurley plays out to the bottom. But maybe your intended purpose is near-shore/bay use, in which case one of the Simpson-Lawrence or small powerwinch models would suffice. If you intend to get jiggy with the offshore wreck fishing scene then these will not cut it, IMO. Look at the Good AFD or Patriot lineup, both with free-drop, and order either one direct from the factory with the heavy duty 4-pole permanent magnet motor which when rigged with the appropriate wiring is capable of generating over 1000 pounds of dead pull. (Speak to Tom Ring Sr or Jr for this option) This soupped-up AFD is what I use and have never been at a loss for pulling power, regardless of whatever debris I managed to hang the anchor in. Can you believe an entire trawler drag-net door off the Atlantic Beach reef? Whoa, scarey to see that thing hanging off the bow, which by the way was pulled WAY down, almost to the water. The pulpit/windlass mount built as above held and I got my terminal gear back, which after all is the point in the first place. I think. Rgds, Leprechaun
- 4/5/2001 5:09:00 PM
Submitted by
Jerk (205.188.193.168) from NORTH CAROLINA says Windlass
The strongest part of the deck in this area is the actual perimeter of the hatch opening, because the angles here re-inforce the deck in the same way angle -iron would. I took advantage of this to mount a Horizon 400 by running two pieces of 1 1/4 square stock across the anchor locker extending 8-10 inches on each side. Each piece had 2 holes for the front and rear mounting holes on the windlass, and the bolts pull them up tight to the bottom of the frame. This also takes care of securing the hatch cover at the same time. I also cut ply to eliminate the space between the botton of the lid and the top of the square stock. Obviously, I had access to the locker, in this case a hatch in the vee-berth. You always need access to clear jams and tangles, even if it's just an inspection port you can stick your arm in. Just remember, never stick your arm in if the anchor is free to fall, or over the side, or you may see that hand come out thru the windlass when the jam clears.
- 4/5/2001 6:48:00 PM
Submitted by
dave (205.188.193.27) from NEW YORK says thanks guys
thanks guys i just wanted read some input before i get my wheels spinging. i want this to be a one time deal "if you know what i mean". i hate drilling holes in good glass !my idea was to build another base on the pulpit and supporting underneath as well.so now the winch sits above the locker opening allowing rope to pay in . next taking the locker door off and replaceing it with "starboard" cover wich will slide off in case of jam up. this is would all be made of over kill materail. does this sound "good" or just "ok".
leprechaun i like what you said about beafing up the motor does this winch draw less because its bigger then you need? i run twin outboards and dual batts. is this enough amps for that winch.i dont have room for a third batt.
thanks dave
- 4/5/2001 8:53:00 PM
Submitted by
Leprechaun (12.88.110.212) from NEW YORK says More, More, More
Good thing Jerk posted after me. I completely forgot that you absolutely, positively will need some means of accessing the underside of the windlass as he correctly pointed out. This is because the constant in and out of the line will eventually create some line-twist which occasionally will throw a loop on releasing the anchor and cause the line to jam in the underside of the windlass. Its unavoidable and all windlasses seem to have this trait, regardless of manufacturer. So, what to do? I recommend a Starboard Plastic door be fabricated to go on the rear of the anchor locker, inside the cockpit, so that you can reach in and free any line jams that might occur. Also very handy for smearing some water-proof marine grease on the motor and the electrical connections on its base to prevent corrosion in what is about the wettest environment on your boat. A Yuucky job, but necessary, IMO.As far as the oversized H/D 4-pole permanent magnet motor in place of the "Standard" 2-brush motor - it really doesn't add all that much to the price and even if you do not do any "Extreme" offshore work, it WILL pull your anchor far faster and with less strain than any other small boat windlass I've ever seen. That's got to be worth something longevity wise. No? And if you DO decide to do the December-dance offshore, when it gets wild and wooly, you've got he preferred weapon of choice all ready to play. As far as electrical needs, yes of course the bigger unit draws more juice, but its nothing that 6-gauge wire can't handle (even better would be 4-gauge) and Good ships it with two circuit breakers - the first is self-resetting and goes on the solenoid bridge, the second is a 60-amp push-to-reset breaker that I mounted next to the Up-Down switch on the dash. Works fine.
I think in order to make a proper windlass selection you need to have a conversation with Tom Ring Jr. or Sr. (Jr.'s usually around the shop) and ask him for pricing and any relavant installation/operation questions you might have. You will find them easy to deal with and they will sell to you factory direct. Tell Tom you want the same set-up he custom built for Pete Bilella on Long Island (That's me) and he'll know just what you want. He'll mutter some strange-sounding noises under his breath, but he do it. I spent enough time on the phone and in person with him refining my specific needs.
Good Automatic Windlass 357 State Hwy. 72 Barnegat, N.J. 08005
609-698-4402 800-780-4655
Its nice to talk to the actual manufacturer and if you feel the need you can jump in the car and actually visit them. Also nice.
On my rig I use the AFD free-drop, as I already stated with 600' of 1/2" spliced right to the anchor shackle/swivel. The AFD cannot accept any chain because of the design of the gypsy, and is an above the deck model with a big time reduction gear drive-train capable of pulling 1000 lbs. This chain/no chain issue is greatly exagerrated in my estimation because people like to pull a smaller anchor, thus less strain on the old back. With this windlass I use a Danforth S1800 16lb standard anchor with the line spliced right to the anchor shackle/swivel and its always held my Shamrock 26 fine, even offshore in 150' of water with a 35 mph wind blowing. Of course, there's the abrasion issue and there is validity to this reason for chain.
Now if you want the sleeker look of a flush mounted windlass then consider Good's "Stealth" model. It comes factory-equipped with the super-duper motor, and WILL accept chain. But because of its in-line design there is no reduction gearing, thus the pull rating is downgraded to "Only" 750lbs. No big deal, my dock buddy just last summer put this model on his Shamrock 20, and it pulls that boat's 10lb anchor and chain as though there's nothing on the end of the line. It comes up so fast that you actually have to pay attention when retrieving, watching for the final portion of the factory line marked in red, or that anchor will hit the pulpit roller with a seriously loud shot. You'll only make that mistake once, I promise.
On the subject of line - I recommend getting the Good line with the chain prespliced to the line - with a really trick splice that'll pass thru the gypsy, it comes in 200/300/600 foot lengths and Tom can quote on a complete windlass/line package if you ask him to. You really need this special line with about any windlass as its woven a little tighter out of softer nylon so the gypsy can really take a no-slip bite on it.
The amount of line you can carry will be determined by the depth and dimensions of the locker, so have these facts ready when you call.
Whew, lots of words, but this is a somewhat complex subject and requires some 'splaining of what's up inorder to spare you grief later. When you should be fishin' not cursin'.
Rgds, Leprechaun
- 4/7/2001 11:35:00 AM
Submitted by
dave (152.163.207.181) from NEW YORK says thanks lep
thanks pete you have been a big help. i'm picking my boat up next week and will let you no what happens and what type of room i have to mount that bad boy . guys have a good weekend .