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SUBJECT: # 13234: Racor Filters.- I trust you guys!

Submitted by cptntony (207.172.196.254) from NEW JERSEY on 12/27/1999 9:44:00 AM

Come spring, I'm planning to install a Racor filter (seen good reviews). My boat came equipped the "standard" fuel/water separator (oil-filter-looking type).

I have browsed through the catalogs only to find a shi%-load of different types and sizes. Yes!, the catalogs include "recommendations" which I'm less likely to trust that those from individuals on this board with first hand experience with Racors. So, here goes!

1) Should I stick with the "recommended" Racor / outboard model as per catalog(s). It's for a 175 HP outboard '89 engine, or based on your experience, should I "oversize / upgrade" when it comes to Racor filtration. (Model # ????).

2) I see models ranging from "Heavy duty, High Capacity, Turbine Series" to "Racor Filter/Separators for Marine Engines" to "Racor Lifeguard Fuel/Air separators" and to To Racor Spin-on Compact Filtration"....etc, etc, .......Give me a break! . What the heck do I need for a lousy 175 OB!

3) Should I ADD the Racor in line with the existing fuel/water separator (extra safety???) and if so, before or after the existing fuel/water separator?

Thanks for your input.....Tony


  1. 12/27/1999 10:44:00 AM Submitted by Jwl (209.34.1.192) from TEXAS says No need to go to a larger size Racor
    just get the model which has the glass/plastic see through and separator. You should be fine. By the way, you should be able to purchase just the filter and bowl. No need to replace other parts.
  2. 12/27/1999 11:18:00 AM Submitted by Sal (152.163.207.61) from CALIFORNIA says Racor filter for your engine.
    Off the top of my head i think the correct one for you is the 320rraco1. West marine has em [ the whole unit ] for $59.95. If you already have a spin on type, they have the filter & clear bowl that fits on Merc. or OMC. units, just make sure theres enough room under your exsisting filterto accomodate the clear bowl. If you have a Merc. spin on type, the hole [ screw in ] will be smaller then the OMC. "BE SURE YOU GET THE RIGHT ONE." I would just get the whole Racor unit. Be sure to get 2 - 90 degree elbows to screw into the filter in order for you to attach your fuel hoses, 1 for fuel entering the filter & 1 for exiting to the engine. Your gonna love it. Sal
  3. 12/27/1999 11:49:00 AM Submitted by Thom (198.99.246.1) from WEST VIRGINIA says +
    Tony,

    As Sal was good enough to tell you, you don't have to buy the whole thing. Depending on what type of filter head you now have you can purchase the appropriate Racor bottom end. This will consist of the Racor filter element and the bottom sepearator - be it the plastic one or the metal version. This is all you need! It will save you money to get it this way and you won't have to do anything more than you would normally find yourself doing when you now change your fuel filter - no new hoses or fittings or anything else - just unscrew your old filter element and screw on the new Racor filter element with its seperator bottom half.

    If you currently have an OMC filter currently (OMC #174144) you will want to pick up either a Racor B32014 unit (see through plastic) or a B32021 which is the same thing with the metal bottom bowl. If you are currently using a Mercury/MerCruiser #35-60494-1 filter unit you will want to pick up the Racor B32013 in plastic or the B32020 if you prefer the metal version. Any of these Racor units will run you about $40 from the catalog places. Replacement filter elements (get one at the same time you order your complete unit) are expensive at around $17-$20 each. Oh, the choice is yours for picking either the plastic or metal version of the seperator. The plastic ones are listed for outboards and the metal versions for inboards/outboards. I beleive the real requirement deals with where the filter is mounted, not what sort of engine is farther down the line. Basically if it is to be mounted below deck where it could be subject to fire before you knew about it the metal version is required - so it won't melt. The advantage that the plastic one has is that you can see if there is junk in it. I use a metal version and consider it an advantage that I can't see what, if anything is in it. Why is my blindness an virtue you might reasonably ask? Easy, because I don't know if there is any junk in there or not it forces me to drain just a little into a small glass jar that I carry before every trip (I also do it after every trip). Just like you would do on a small aircraft - if you want to continue living that is ........

    Thom


  4. 12/27/1999 2:06:00 PM Submitted by cptntony (207.172.176.45) from NEW JERSEY says Aha! - I see!
    Evidently the "Racor" part refers to the filter and bowl elements which should fit the existing screw-on water separator currently installed. I now see the model quoted and replacement elements in the catalogue.

    Oh yes, before I forget, It's for an '89 Merc. (don't remember offhand the filter separator replacement #). The filter unit is mounted fairly high (above deck level actually) to the transom bulkhead (port side). It's accessible through the battery access hatch (or seat cushion when closed). I should have plenty of clearance below the element.

    See, I knew I could trust you guys!. And Thom, choice of metal for out-of-sight, out-of-mind???, but then you look at the contents inside the filter before each trip???? Are you alright !!!...:)

    Thank again to all of you.....Tony


  5. 12/27/1999 2:35:00 PM Submitted by Thom (198.99.246.1) from WEST VIRGINIA says ++
    Well, something like that. My point is that because I don't use the plastic kind I have no choice but to check mine to see if there is any stuff in there. If I were to use the plastic bottoms I would likely, just because this is my nature, become very complacent and over time forget to check the thing. As it is now I'm stuck having to do the job - which is a very good thing for my lazy butt. Also, I didn't want to give the impression that the way I described it, just using your filter head and the Racor bottoms, is the only way. Of course Racor will be happy to sell you or anyone else the complete unit with will include their filter head, filter element, and the bottom bowl. It's just that by using your perfectly good current filter head, be it OMC or MerCruiser, you can save yourself about $30 as well as the trouble of plumbing in new hoses and such. Whatever .....

    Thom


  6. 12/27/1999 3:00:00 PM Submitted by cptntony (207.172.176.45) from NEW JERSEY says I do like you sense of humor Thom---that's what I really meant! - nmsg.
    nmsg
  7. 12/27/1999 3:34:00 PM Submitted by mongo (208.46.139.225) from NEW JERSEY says fuel system
    when you replace your filter keep in mind that you may want to go over your entire system from your tank fitting to your egine. 1- check all of your fittings and make sure they are 3/8" fittings. 2- all fuel hose should be 3/8" and any hose below deck should be type a-1 hose. 3- make sure you replace your primer bulb 3/8" of course. by going with 3/8" you are minimizing your chance of a fuel restriction and will enhance engine proformance/extend engine life. good luck:)
  8. 12/28/1999 1:28:00 PM Submitted by fishin impared (209.97.9.87) from VIRGINIA says Another bit of advice
    Carry 2 spare filter elements w/ you on board and 2 oil filter wrenches. Should you be unlucky to get a load of crap gas or water in your tank, filter 1 may constrict (and usually in the worst place/conditions!). Changing elements out in a bucking sea is no treat. You'll need 1 filter wrench to get it off the mount, then you'll need to use both to get the bowl off the element. Carrying the 3rd element is the god save me backup unit.

    I have also taken to carrying an extra length of fuel line just in case. Since the Racors will cut off the fuel supply when they get gummed up, I keep the fuel line to bypass the filter if I get really desperate. I'd rather get home spitting and chugging on what ever fuel will make the pistons go up and down then sit and wait for tow boat to come. I figure the repair bill for burning $h!t will be about the same as the cost of a long tow.


  9. 12/29/1999 11:53:00 AM Submitted by cptntony (63.25.169.46) from NEW JERSEY says thank you all - nmsg
    nmsg

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