|
|
|
|
|
|
|
SUBJECT: # 19318: Painting an old aluminum boat need advice
Submitted by Todd O (209.45.237.161) from NORTH CAROLINA on 3/13/2001 8:06:00 AM
Its a 14ft aluminum Vhull at least 20 years old the anodize is corroded off abou 35% of the surface. Boat will be kept on land. I am currently planning to sand, wipe down , Zinc chromate primer and 2 coats of polyurethane on hull.I am looking for a jon boat type finish not a yacht finnish.Is there an easier way or should I stick to the above method? thanks.
- 3/13/2001 12:06:00 PM
Submitted by
Gray Ghost (63.49.85.138) from NEW HAMPSHIRE says Sounds good
It sounds like you're on the right track. When I did mine, I used a wire brush on the end of a drill, no sanding and only used one coat of poly. It looked good and held up better than the factory finish. Good luck with your endeavor.
- 3/13/2001 3:35:00 PM
Submitted by
TimC (207.18.199.198) from TEXAS says No paint
I used paint remover on a canoe and never painted it. It's done fine for four years. Why paint if you will have to do it again? I kind of like the shiny metal look - kind of like a Delorean car.Timc
- 3/13/2001 10:28:00 PM
Submitted by
Salsa (209.144.213.225) from CALIFORNIA says roughing up aluminum boat
Get one of the $20 4 inch body grinders. Get a few of the wire brushes to fit it that are rated to 10000 RPM. It is the easy way. Then etch it before you zinc chromate it. The 2 part stuff sticks better than the old stuff. Don
- 3/14/2001 7:34:00 PM
Submitted by
mudbug (204.196.238.165) from LOUISIANA says re:painting aluminum
I agree with the previous post. I painted a 37yr old aluminum boat 2 yrs ago that had multiple coats of old paint. I used a grinder and stainless wire brushes, and 60 grit sandpaper on a random orbit sander to etch the whole boat. Inside corners that I couldnt get into with sander or grinder, I sprayed stripper, then used hyroblaster (5000 psi) to blast out old paint. Messy but it works. To take that whole 16' boat down to bare metal cost me aobut $100 in wirebrushes, sandpaper, and stripper. I welded up all the cracks, replaced the wood in the transom, then primed and painted and it looked fantastic. I sold it for about $800 profit when I got through, after using it for a year. But the work wasnt worth the money, I fixed it up for me, then found another project boat to work on, so I sold it and started all over again. Dont be afraid to use a little bondo to fill pits or slightly corroded areas either.
- 3/16/2001 11:11:00 AM
Submitted by
TimC (207.18.199.196) from TEXAS says JBWeld not bondo
I suggest JBWeld on holes. It seems more durable than bondo. I had the stern welded, but the skin is hard to weld since it's so thin. I also had to JBWeld the stern to fill holes the welder missed. I've had JBWeld on the skin, below the waterline, for over two years without incident.