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SUBJECT: # 27118: SeaStar Hydraulic Steering- Removal?
Submitted by TimL (68.63.119.242) from CONNECTICUT on 3/5/05 12:59:00 PM
I am trying to get my motor off so that I can install the new one and can't figure out how to remove the hydraulic steering unit. I am having a problem downloading the installation manual from the Teleflex website. It is a front mounted cylinder. Any help with this would be appreciated. Tim
- 3/6/05 10:13:00 AM
Submitted by
Thom (12.165.13.45) from ALABAMA says Sure
Tim,They aren't difficult to get off - at least most of it won't be - and you do not need to take the whole thing apart.
I do not know the correct names for all the parts, I should start by telling you that - so I'll just try to describe them to you.
First off there is a steering tube on the engine. It runs left to right and it is the threaded ends of the shaft that passes through this tube that the large L shaped brackets (probably black) that hold your cylinder to the engine are attaced to.
So look at your hudraulic cylinder and you'll see that the stailess shaft that comes out of its ends goes through a bracket (the L-shaped black one) and is held in place by a single nut - which I believe is 3/8" (requires a 9/16" wrench). Loosen those two nuts but don't remove them quite yet.
Next, the L-shapped brackets are held to the steering tube's shaft by a large nut (the thread is 1/2" fine, so the wrench is 3/4" (19mm). Loosen both of these nuts but don't take them off. Notice that there is a spacer(s) between the L-bracket and the engine steering shaft. Draw yourself a little diagram of how they are in place.
Next, look right at the center of your cylinder, now look behind and under it. See a yolk comming off the engine with a bolt passing through it and then into a bracket that is either bolted or rivited to the cylinder? You need to take the nut off the top of that bolt. It may be a very thin nut (requires a 9/16" wrench if I remember correctly). Remove the nut. There may be threaded flat metal plates and maybe even a plastic (teflon?) plate in there so have your pad and pencil ready and note the order in which the things were put in place. Notice that if you have a threaded plate in there that it will be a little thicker than the others and that it will have notches in its side. You use those notches to loosen and tighten it, perferably and correctly with a spanner, but more commonly with a screwdriver and a hammer.
With that steering linkage removed you can go back and remove those 4 bolts I told you to loosen earler and remove them. It will all slide apart then. Should take you 15 minutes.
Notice that I did not say anything at all about disconnecting the hydraulic lines. You do not need to in order to change the engine. just hand the cylinder out of the way with its line attached.
That help any?
Thom
- 3/6/05 10:26:00 AM
Submitted by
Thom (12.165.13.45) from ALABAMA says Can't Edit The Post
I wish you could go back and edit posts here.There is one of those L-Shapped brackets on each end of the cylinder.
Make sure you use lots of lubricant (grease) on the slider parts where the yolk attaches to the cylinder when you put it back together. I actually use a copper based water-proof antisieze on mine with good success, but it could be exactly the wrong thing to do and I may be destroying my steering - I do not know.
Also, there is a knurled knob (with allen set screw) on one side of the engine (Port) that is used to adjust the distance the L-shapped brackets are spaced to match your cylinder/engine combination.
Another adder. The stainless steel shaft that passes through your steering tube - you'll need it on the new engine. Now let me tell you something. You can spend a half a day trying to get the old one out without buggering up the threads or you can make a phone call monday morning to the vendor of your choice and order a new one - the last one I bought cost me $24. It was worth every single penny. Just leave the old shaft in the old engine/
Thom
- 3/6/05 6:13:00 PM
Submitted by
TimL (68.63.119.242) from CONNECTICUT says Success
The big problem was the brackets were seized to the rod in the tilt tube. I had to use heat and a puller to get them apart. Must be an electrolysis thing between the aluminum ans stainless. Thanks for the tip on the anti-seize, I keep the copper based stuff handy.
- 3/9/05 7:53:00 PM
Submitted by
Dunk79 (68.44.136.169) from NEW JERSEY says Don't Do it...
Stainless and alum are bad enough. Add another metal to the mix will just make thing worse. The best thing is triple guard grease and remove and clean it every year. You be better off plugging the ends with 5200 or figuring another way to keep saltwater out of the tilt tube. All grease drys and hardens in saltwater. You just have to stay ahead of it.
- 3/10/05 6:59:00 AM
Submitted by
TimL (64.252.95.57) from CONNECTICUT says Thanks folks
The part in the tilt tube was well greaed and was free. Just the brackets were frozen. Hopefull this will be the last time I will have to take these apart. I'll just grease the heck out of eveything. Tim
