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SUBJECT: # 27751: Johnson 200 hp Ocean Pro

Submitted by TimL ( from CONNECTICUT on 4/1/2007 6:14:00 PM

I am going to check out a 2000- Hydra Sport, Vector, 20' Center console that a nephew is buying. It is powered by the same year 200 hp Johnson Ocean Pro. Anything special about these motors? Will plan on sea trial, compression check amd lower unit check. What is the compression range on these motors? Would appreciate any advice. Tim

  1. 4/2/2007 7:52:00 AM Submitted by Billybob ( from CT says Vector
    So, let me get this straight. You sell your boat but now you got your nephew buying one?

    You're a smart man Tim! I like that hull, as for the compression, don't know the number off the top, I'm thinking 125 or so - I'll check the service manual for you at home. More important IMO is that they are all close. Just fyi - I have a new e-mail:

    You might need a fishing buddy some day!

  2. 4/2/2007 6:49:00 PM Submitted by TimL ( from CT says PM sent
    Hi Bill, Glad your still around. Sent you a pm. Tim

  3. 4/6/2007 12:00:00 PM Submitted by TimL ( from CT says Compression numbers
    Ran the motor today for about 10 minutes and took compression readings. From top to bottom these are the results: (right)100,99,99. (left)90,90,85. The 85 reading may be suspicious because the mechanic was using an angled gauge that you had to hold against the hole and he had a hard time getting around the cowling. Readings seem low to me and I am concerned about that left bank. Any thoughts? Tim

  4. 4/6/2007 3:35:00 PM Submitted by Reel-Rascals ( from MA says Numbers ...
    Per the OMC Service Manual:

    1) Operate the OB until it reaches normal operating temperature, then shut her down 2) Remove and inspect all spark plugs, checking their condition 3) Ensure you have a good battery - fully charged 4) Install compression tester in 1st plug hole, remove "OB safety lanyard" so power to the coils is killed 5) With throttle in wide-open position, crank engine with starter thru at least 4 compression strokes 6) The LOWEST cylinder reading should be at least 80% of the HIGHEST cylinder reading EXAMPLE: Highest = 100 PSI ... lowest should be at least 80 PSI 7) On "V bank motors, the average pressure reading may vary between the port & starboard cylinder banks, but these averages should not vary more than 15% from one bank to the other.

    ============================== That's what the book says. FWIW when I checked my '97 225hp Ocean Runner, she was at 90 or thereof on all cyclinders, but sounds like your left/right bank concern might be addressed by Step #7 above. Will be interesting to see what those with more experience than either you or I chime in with.

  5. 4/6/2007 5:49:00 PM Submitted by Dunk79 ( from NJ says Compression
    I think that warm engine crap is just that. This time of year I do lots of compression testing both warm and cold. Boats that are buried in boat yards that can't be run or seatrialed.

    In the last week I compression tested a 97 225hp and two 2000 200hp and all of them were between 95 and 105 in all of the jugs. All three were ice cold.. The bottom cylinder on the port side was the lowest on all three engines. That's one that down below the pan edge.

    Tim, if you can, decarbon the engine then test again. More than likely it will even them out.

  6. 4/6/2007 6:13:00 PM Submitted by TimL ( from CT says Thanks Folks
    Thanks Dunk, Being on that HydraSport Vector today made me wish I hung onto mine. I am proud of my nephew, he is learning. He told the marina to run some Seafoam through it and he will come back for a sea trial and then re-do the compression numbers. The only other thing left to negotiate is that the trailer has no brakes and he is looking for some relief on the price. That 20'Vector is a sweet center console. Any guess what he can expect for speed with a 200 hp Johnson?

  7. 4/11/2007 7:40:00 PM Submitted by Roby ( from TX says Gauge.
    The gauge your mechanic is using is crap. A quality gauge will screw into the spark plug threads. The main reason you want a warm engine is because it will have a coating of oil and fuel on the rings. A cold engine that has been setting for a long time can give erroneous readings due to lack of lubrication in the cylinders.

  8. 4/12/2007 6:07:00 PM Submitted by Dunk79 ( from NJ says Tim...
    Setup right that 20 Vector should run 45-47mph with that 200. I've seen them with 150 Johnson's and they'll run 40-42..

    Roby I've compression tested allot engines hot and cold and I've never seen it make much difference. Yes, if I was looking for high numbers I'd warm the engine. Most times I'm just looking for differences between them.

    Gauges...I buy Sears/Craftsman's for 25-30 bucks. I'll say also there's nothing wrong with the gauges with the rubber ply end that you hold against the plug hole. They work fine, but you have to be able to get squarely to the plug hole for a good seal..

  9. 4/13/2007 3:32:00 PM Submitted by TimL ( from CT says Sea Trial
    We went for a test ride today, wind was howling and man it was cold. Motor ran fine,quick warmup and great hole shot. WOT was 5200 rpms. Dash speedo said 38 mph?. Unfortunately, the GPS was missing so we could not compare. Only other problem was volt meter was not working so mechanic put a meter on it and it showed 13.2 volts. Marina said they would take care of it before sale and credit the value of the GPS if they can't come up with it.

  10. 4/18/2007 2:58:00 PM Submitted by bdobz ( from NJ says Low rpms
    Looks like your going to drop down on the pitch of the prop atleast 2 degrees that horse should see close to 6000 rpm.Just wait to the summmer heat and you load the boat up that really drops the rpm`s.what size prop is on there?check to see where the cavatation plate is to the bottom of the boat(sould atleast be even with the bottom or alittle above it.

  11. 5/8/2007 11:15:00 AM Submitted by Jim ( from FL says 1998 Johnson Ocean Runner 200 hp
    Two Questions:

    1) Engine Water Temp Alarm goes on at Slow Speed (idle). No alarm at 1500 rpm, but tends to go off at about 1200 rpm, if run for more than 10 minutes+/-.

    2) Volt meter is showing 15 volts (after a two hour run). Normally runs 13.5 +/-.

    Would appreciate any ideas.

    thanks for you help.


  12. 5/8/2007 1:56:00 PM Submitted by FreeOnBoard from TX says Jim, first guess, water pump...
    Jim, if that pump has some age on it, it may not have the pressure to push enough water past the thermostats at idle. Or if it's recently sucked up some sandy mud, that can wear out an impeller and abraid the liner pretty fast (voice of experience). FWIW, my 'Rude V4, which has temperature gauges on both heads, runs hottest at idle and gets gradually cool with higher RPMs, then the head temp. makes a big dip when the thermostat bypass kicks in. Another possibility is that one of head temp. switches is closing at a lower temperature. A mechanic would use an IR temp. guage to test this, but you can do a rough estimate with your hand. After it heats up and trips the alarm, do a quick touch test on each head and they should be immediately painfully hot. If it's like my V4, the switches have individual connectors so you can isolate which one is tripping. The thermostats would be another thing to check. Good luck.

  13. 7/16/2007 11:43:00 AM Submitted by J lawrence ( from AL says Johnson 200 hp oceanrunner rpm gage
    RPM Gage works part of the time, then goes off. Will start working and go for a while and then stop again. I checked the connection to the mounted gage and it looks good. Any other ideas to repair this?

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